Guide to building a garden bar

A handy garden bar that will be the highlight of any party! It not only looks good, but also offers additional space for drinks, glasses and other utensils.

  • 120 grit sandpaper
  • Microfiber wipe
  • Ruler for keeping 4mm space

Side parts

  • 2 Square timber (side) 1105 x 30 x 30 mm
  • 4 Vertical side beam 1105 x 70 x 20 mm
  • 2 Vertical side beam (short) 165 x 70 x 20 mm
  • 2 Top shelf 70 x 50 x 20 mm
  • 28 Side crossbeams 390 x 65 x 20 mm
  • 2 Side crossbeams (bottom) 390 x 120 x 20 mm

Front parts

  • 2 Square timber (front) 1310 x 30 x 30 mm
  • 2 Vertical beam (front) 1310 x 70 x 30 mm
  • 17 Front crossbeam 1445 x 65 x 20 mm
  • 1 Front crossbeam (bottom) 1445 x 120 x 20 mm
  • 2 Diagonal reinforcement 1120 x 70 x 20 mm

Shelves

  • 6 Crossbeam 380 x 40 x 20 mm
  • 4 Interior shelf 1400 x 125 x 20 mm
  • 4 Shelf 1530 x 140 x 40 mm

Accessories

  • approx. 180 Torx screws 4 x 35 mm
  • Wood glue
  • Wood & Metal Paint

Sketch

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Since paint applied too thickly can cause drips, it's better to spray two thin coats than one thick coat. After spraying, allow the paint to dry in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Step-by-step guide for building a garden bar

Step 1 of 9: Frame for side panels

Frame for side panels

To create the construction shown in the left picture. You will need the following parts: vertical side beams, short vertical side beams, top shelf and front vertical beams. Make sure you create the construction for the left and for the right side of the bar. In the next step, create two countersink pilot holes between the side square timbers and the vertical side beams (Fig. 2). Also create an countersink pilot hole to connect the front square timber and the construction from Fig. 1. The countersink pilot hole must be on the enclosed side.

Frame for side panels

To create the construction shown in the left picture. You will need the following parts: vertical side beams, short vertical side beams, top shelf and front vertical beams. Make sure you create the construction for the left and for the right side of the bar. In the next step, create two countersink pilot holes between the side square timbers and the vertical side beams (Fig. 2). Also create an countersink pilot hole to connect the front square timber and the construction from Fig. 1. The countersink pilot hole must be on the enclosed side.

Step 2 of 9: Completing the side panels

Completing the side panels

The left and right sides are connected by the crossbeam. In the centre, the boards can then be screwed to the panels (side of the crossbeams). For this, use a spacer with a thickness of 4 mm. A wooden ruler is suitable for this purpose.

Completing the side panels

The left and right sides are connected by the crossbeam. In the centre, the boards can then be screwed to the panels (side of the crossbeams). For this, use a spacer with a thickness of 4 mm. A wooden ruler is suitable for this purpose.

Step 3 of 9: Frame of the bar

Frame of the bar

Screw the tall board which spans the width of the bar (crossbeam on the front side at the base) to the base of the side panels. This forms the basic frame for the bar. The spacer can again be used when fastening the long crossbeams (front crossbeams). Diagonal reinforcements are screwed on (right figure) to provide stability.

Frame of the bar

Screw the tall board which spans the width of the bar (crossbeam on the front side at the base) to the base of the side panels. This forms the basic frame for the bar. The spacer can again be used when fastening the long crossbeams (front crossbeams). Diagonal reinforcements are screwed on (right figure) to provide stability.

Step 4 of 9: The interior shelves

The interior shelves

To install the interior shelves, two crossbeams are screwed to the side panels and the inner shelf supports are inserted and screwed into place.

The interior shelves

To install the interior shelves, two crossbeams are screwed to the side panels and the inner shelf supports are inserted and screwed into place.

Step 5 of 9: Preparation and bar area

Preparation and bar area

For the upper, narrow bar surface, a shelf can be simply laid down and fixed in place. For the larger preparation area, three shelves are glued together and then additionally secured with a crossbeam, which is screwed into place (left figure). The preparation area can then be screwed into place from below. Finally, insert the interior shelves.

Preparation and bar area

For the upper, narrow bar surface, a shelf can be simply laid down and fixed in place. For the larger preparation area, three shelves are glued together and then additionally secured with a crossbeam, which is screwed into place (left figure). The preparation area can then be screwed into place from below. Finally, insert the interior shelves.

Step 6 of 9: Sanding and removing the dust

Sanding and removing the dust

Before the bar can be painted, it must be sanded. We recommend 120 grit sandpaper for this. Then use a dust-free microfibre cloth to clean the surface of dust and dirt.

Sanding and removing the dust

Before the bar can be painted, it must be sanded. We recommend 120 grit sandpaper for this. Then use a dust-free microfibre cloth to clean the surface of dust and dirt.

Step 7 of 9: Preparing the sprayer

Preparing the sprayer

The sprayer is ready for use in just a few steps. Pour paint into the paint container until it is 3/4 full and dilute in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, or depending on the desired spray pattern. To do this, use the included stirrer each notch correspondes to a 10% dilution. The suction pipe can be aligned depending on how you are going to work — forwards when spraying objects overhead and backwards when spraying downwards. The spray jet can also be adjusted three ways — horizontally, vertically and diagonally. Carry out a test spray to find the right settings for you.

Preparing the sprayer

The sprayer is ready for use in just a few steps. Pour paint into the paint container until it is 3/4 full and dilute in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, or depending on the desired spray pattern. To do this, use the included stirrer each notch correspondes to a 10% dilution. The suction pipe can be aligned depending on how you are going to work — forwards when spraying objects overhead and backwards when spraying downwards. The spray jet can also be adjusted three ways — horizontally, vertically and diagonally. Carry out a test spray to find the right settings for you.

Step 8 of 9: The spraying process

The spraying process

Start with corners, edges and angles and then spray the surfaces. Spray from the outside with a uniform distance over the slats. Only change the direction of spray outside the slats. This avoids a build-up of thicker layers of paint during direction changes.

The spraying process

Start with corners, edges and angles and then spray the surfaces. Spray from the outside with a uniform distance over the slats. Only change the direction of spray outside the slats. This avoids a build-up of thicker layers of paint during direction changes.

Step 9 of 9: The cleaning

The cleaning

Clean the spray attachment thoroughly with water or solvent after use. To do so, unscrew all parts and clean them in a basin by hand or with a sponge.

If you wish, you can convert the spray gun into a paint sprayer for wood & metal paints. Click the Standard spray attachment onto the turbine for applying water or solvent based paint including, glazes, primers, stains and wood preservatives - here too, the spraying effect produces an excellent surface finish. With the spray systems from Wagner, the application of interior wall paint, varnish and glaze is quick and easy and the results speak for themselves. After that, all you have to do is sit back and enjoy!

The result

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